L’Oréal Awarded for its leadership in Scientific Innovation at IFSCC 2024
Founded in 1959, the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) brings together experts in cosmetic science and technology from around the world. This annual congress, a place for exchange and sharing, is an opportunity to discover the latest advances in the sector. The importance of research for the cosmetics industry was notably highlighted by Charles Zviak, President of L'Oréal from 1957 to 1984, who also presided over the IFSCC in 1969.
This year again, L'Oréal and its researchers mobilized at the IFSCC Congress, the essential global event for cosmetics research. Experts and scientists from around the world gathered in Brazil to share their new knowledge and discoveries. This 2024 edition honored a theme important to L'Oréal: sustainable innovation.
Record mobilization of L'Oréal Research and Innovation.
Around twenty researchers from around the world participated, showcasing Groupe commitments for cosmetic research and knowledge sharing. L'Oréal thus demonstrated its scientific leadership by presenting subjects as varied as photoprotection; pigmentation; microbiome; hair; makeup; cognitive sciences; sustainable innovation … Reflecting the quality of our researchers' work, no less than 2 keynotes, 1 workshop, 6 oral presentations and 31 posters selected by the organizing scientific board were showcased. Among these topics, two oral presentations ranked in the TOP 10 best oral presentations in the Basic Research category! They covered innovative topics: one explored a new formula to address pigmentary disorders in all skin tone diversity, incorporating our last MELASYL innovation, while the other highlighted L'Oréal's commitment to sustainability through its work on a field cultivation index.
In addition, Fumiyoshi IKKAI's presentation, entitled “Red-Light Reflection of Ultramarine Blue: Impact on Skin-Enhancing Effect When Used in Cosmetics”, won the prize for best oral presentation in Applied Research.
At the IFSCC 2024 Congress, Fumiyoshi IKKAI, a researcher at L'Oréal in Japan, presented groundbreaking work on the use of ultramarine blue in cosmetics. His study revealed that this pigment, derived from abundant minerals, thanks to its unique ability to reflect red light, has enhancing properties for the skin. Indeed, integrated into foundations, ultramarine blue makes it possible to obtain a more uniform and luminous complexion, comparable, or even superior, to that obtained with the black iron oxides traditionally used. This discovery, which earned Fumiyoshi IKKAI the prize for best oral presentation in Applied Research, highlights L’Oréal's commitment to leveraging cutting-edge formulation science to develop inclusive beauty products for all skin colors
L'Oréal R&I, driving force for sustainable innovation at IFSCC.
With a keynote, a workshop, an oral presentation, 13 posters, and the Ilha Viva exhibition, sustainable innovation was widely addressed by L'Oréal research. While the Group's sustainable ambition is no longer to be proven, environmental sciences remain a territory to be explored.
Sustainable innovation is a priority for the Group, the L'Oréal for the Future program, launched in 2020, embodies the Group's ambition in terms of sustainability and the conviction that companies can be part of the solution to the challenges the world is facing. And this is a project that can only be achieved with the collaboration of the entire cosmetics ecosystem. Therefore, L'Oréal offered, prior to the congress, a workshop intended for a wider audience, including students and young professionals to engage them in holistic sustainability. Carried out in collaboration with key partners such as Givaudan and the EcoBeautyScore consortium, this workshop offered keys to understanding the challenges of sustainability in the cosmetics industry. Through concrete examples, the speakers presented the environmental transition currently being undertaken by the sector's stakeholders. Reducing greenhouse gas emissions, managing water and biodiversity, integrating planetary boundaries... so many challenges and opportunities that were addressed during this workshop, reminding us that sustainability is not a constraint, but a formidable lever for innovation and growth for the cosmetics industry.
Field Cultivation Index: Guiding towards the most responsible cultivation methods.
Within the framework of L'Oréal for the Future, the Group has set ambitious objectives, particularly in terms of resources. Responsibly sourcing biomass is therefore a priority. This is why L'Oréal has developed the "Field Cultivation Index", a tool for assessing the environmental impact of different cultivation systems. The tool analyzes agricultural practices, considering soil health, the use of inputs, and the impact on biodiversity. It allows scoring and comparing farming systems to offer a clear vision of their environmental impact.
The objective? To support suppliers towards more sustainable and responsible practices by identifying the most suitable farming system and promoting the sharing of best practices.
Consumer experience: Reconciling desirability with environmental challenges
At L'Oréal, we consider the environmental impact of a product throughout its entire life cycle, from design to use and end-of-life. Other criteria on which L'Oréal remains uncompromising are the safety and performance of its products, and the user experience remains at the heart of the development of each of our innovations. To reconcile environmental impact and desirability, L'Oréal's researchers are decoding the complexity of interactions between the senses (touch, smell, sight, hearing), emotions, memory and behaviors.
The objective? To design products that invite more responsible consumption, without compromising on sensoriality and the pleasure of use.
Encouraging start-ups active in sustainable innovation
Because L'Oréal is convinced that the solution lies in collective action and collaboration, the Group supported the Sustainability Challenge for the second consecutive year. This initiative organized by the Brazilian Association of Cosmetology (ABC), is an opportunity for young start-ups to present innovative solutions in terms of sustainability and to promote them to potential partners. A true platform for start-ups, the Sustainability Challenge encourages the emergence of innovative solutions for a more responsible industry.
This year, the start-up Apoena won the challenge thanks to its innovative approach to bioprospecting. The young company explores the richness of Brazilian biodiversity by building a unique collection of microorganisms, particularly before these species disappear, veritable treasures with promising cosmetic applications. This responsible approach, which aims to preserve ecosystems while revealing the still unexploited potential of nature, attracted particular attention.
"As part of our commitment to sustainable innovation, we are convinced that we need to support all initiatives, including those of smaller structures such as start-ups like Apoena, which offer highly disruptive solutions"
Pascale MORA, Director of Scientific Communications at L'Oréal R&I.
Heading to Cannes in 2025!
Our researchers leave IFSCC 2024 with the pride of having been able to present their work on various subjects with a view to sustainable beauty. Enriched by exchanges with their peers, these discussions will continue at the next IFSCC 2025 , which will take place in Cannes with the theme "The future is science", leaded by Isabelle CASTIEL, new Vice-President of IFSCC and Chair of Science of IFSCC Congress in France next year, marking a major milestone for innovation in the beauty sector.